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Le Comptoir de Yves Camdeborde in the 6th arrondissement in Paris

Call me old fashioned, but I think that going out for a good meal should be something special…

Just a couple of times a year I think it’s a treat to go somewhere a bit upmarket, eat really well and relax. The problem is, I hate it when they treat you like porcelain, with that robotic too-smiley politeness that some people (I assume) must take as genuine. It’s really not what I’m looking for. I much prefer a restaurant where the waiters are laid back, the décor is great, the food is amazing and the great ambiance comes naturally as a result.

Welcome, then, to The Comptoir, just next to Odeon in the Saint Germain area of Paris, where the tablecloths are starched rather than the waiters. Where you’ve obviously booked a couple of months ahead (well done!), as their 22 tables are always full. Where the décor is classic art déco French bistro and the food is anything but; think ‘bistronomie’, with gastronomy updating traditional French cuisine.

A glass of white wine and homemade vegetable crisps helped us relax while we perused the menu. I really like the idea of a six-course meal. Sounds decadent! I also like the concept of going to a restaurant and not having a choice of what you’ll eat; whilst it sounds dubious, the fact is that the dishes on offer are chosen based on what was best at the market that day, and you can be sure that everything is delicious.

I have to admit though, we cheated. We are vegetarian, so there was little chance of us stomaching the saddle of lamb. No problem! For the delicious celery and chestnut soup they were happy to leave out the foie gras. And after the amazing scallops ‘a la plancha’ we were served delicious fish and pan-fried mushrooms as an alternative dish. It was perfect with the crusty fresh bread.

Just when you thought your savoury stomach couldn’t take any more, the cheese tray arrives with such a selection that it’s difficult to know where to start (or when to stop). And they come with different jams and honey. If you’ve never tried really tangy cheese with jam, it really is a hundred times more delicious than it sounds.

We then had to ask for a ten-minute pause to let all of that go down! Whilst every dish looks fairly small, there are quite a few a get through… After this short rest, we were ready for the dessert, a lightly caramelised rice pudding with grilled almonds and poached peaches. Spectacular stuff.

And the final touch was coffee with a special handmade chocolate that was absolutely delicious. We were stuffed, delighted and impressed.

If you ever want to go but haven’t been able to book in advance, there’s a small chance that there will be space left on the tiny terrace. In winter they have outside heaters and lend you blankets to put over your legs. We almost regretted not being out there!

All in all, I would recommend the Comptoir for a special lovers meal; the intimate and friendly atmosphere help you get cosy, and the food will amaze you. As chef Yves Camdeborde, once of the Ritz, guiltily admits, only 50% of a restaurant’s success depends on the food. The rest is all about the details, the service, and – inevitably – the je ne sais quoi. At the Comptoir, it all comes together like a charm. We hope you’ll agree. 100%.

Le Comptoir-Yves Camdeborde
9, carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris
01-43-29-12-05.
In the evening : menu 42 € . For Lunch : 35€