Intrigued by their huge wine cellar (displayed as a feature in the restaurant) and the superb space, we went down for a very special lunch. Here’s our review!
A seven-metre high room, a wine cellar the size of a Parisian apartment… Les Climats is impressive as soon as you enter.
However, the interior design may not be to everyone’s taste. There red velvet seats have leopard print trimmings, and the grass in the garden (open only for lunche, and only when the weather permits) is 100% plastic. The young team also seem to have a stiffness about them which we found a little cold, despite the thin smiles.
Certain diners probably appreciate this ‘professional’ attitude, but if you prefer a more laidback vibe, it may not be for you.
With its Michelin star and great location, the prices are unsurprisingly high.
A main course costs around 60€, a dessert 22€, and the wines – many from Bourgogne – are priced from 25€ to a barely-believable 9,255€ (the wine list is actually a full-blown 250-page book that you can read as a PDF file here).
Wine lovers may like to know that the restaurant is one of only four in France to have won the Wine Spectator “Grand Award of Excellence” (the others are La Tour d’Argent, Taillevent and Epicure).
For anyone on a less than royal budget, don’t worry – the fixed-price lunchtime menu is a bargain at just 45€ for three courses (to which you may like to add a 18€ glass of wine).
That’s a lot less than the 130€ tasting menu (220€ with wine), also on offer at lunchtime.
Our meal started with a little square of haddock and mimolette cheese, which was quick to eat but beautifully crusty and pungent.
The – surprise! – a second pre-starter: little chou pastries with cream and parmesan (also delicious) served with a radish per person.
The moment had come to start the actual lunch menu, which changes every day. There are two choices for each course, allowing us to taste both for you. And so, our starters were white line-caught tuna and wild mushrooms.
The tuna was perfectly cooked, served with green beans and fig, and the mushrooms and tasted looked amazing, covered with white froth and served in a froth-decorated dish!
Once we had finished the starters, the main dishes arrived very quickly. On the menu there was:
– a shoulder of lamb braised at a low heat and perfumed with oriental spices, served with houmous, parsley, coriander, black Kalamata olives noires and sun-dried tomatoes
– cod with cocos de Paimpol and a spinach velouté
Once again, the fish was cooked to perfection, neither too firm nor too soft, and the sauce on the beans had a surprising kick to it that we really liked.
The lamb was also good, although apparently almost too salty. The presentation was refreshingly simple but elegant.
Good news – we still had space for dessert! Today’s menu offered either a fig tart or a selection of cheeses.
The fig tart was beautifully constructed, with a selection of different tastes and textures. Absolutely wonderful! However, we were surprised at the bland presentation of the cheese, although it was served with toasted bread and a side salad separately.
And our meal finished with a couple of little sweet treats – a caramel chou and something called an ‘Orsay pistache’, both of which were a delightful way to finish off.
Les Climats is a luxury restaurant where the very lovely food logically comes at a price.
Nevertheless, the lunchtime fixed menu is a good way to get a peep into another world without ruining your finances. After all, no-one is forcing you you get the 9,000 euro bottle of wine!
Les Climats (here) is open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Tel.+33 (0)1 58 62 10 08
Online booking: here