We thought that everyone knew about the Buttes Chaumont, but after having mentioned it to two different friends from out of town, it seems that it’s largely unexplored by some and completely unknown to others! Strange really, as it’s one of our favourite Parisian parks – and one of the biggest too – with incredible views…

In our opinion, it’s one of the best Parisian parks, with plenty of space, giant hills, a lake, games for kids, restaurants, a waterfall, a suspension bridge… and yet it would seem that some people just don’t get round to visiting it, as it’s slightly off the standard tourist trail. Could the Buttes Chaumont be Paris’ secret green space?

Spread over a hilly 247,316 m² (the 3rd biggest park in Paris after the Tuileries garden and la Villette), the park was opened to coincide with the Exposition Universelle in 1867, and was constructed on the site of an old quarry (that explains the hills then!). Making the most of an extremely warm day, we went down there to explore every last leafy corner for you!
Throughout the park you’ll be faced with slopes, tiny almost-secret paths and quaint details like the little streams and reinforced concrete sculpted to look like wood…
If you don’t like slopes or steps, you should probably go elsewhere. In the Buttes Chaumont you’ll be face with them both endlessly (people with pushchairs be warned) but it’s precisely because the park is high up and hilly that sporty types love it for jogging. For the rest of us, going up, up and up again gives you rewarding views of the city that you won’t find elsewhere…
The most impressive viewpoint is right in the centre of the park: on a island, 30 metres up is the temple of the Sybil, a copy of the temple of  Tivoli in Rome. To get there, two options: the 65-metre long suspension bridge…
…or the ‘Fatal Bridge’, also known as ‘Suicide Bridge”. 22 metres high, legend has it that some desperate sould used to use to put an end to their misery, or – depending on whose story you listen to – that people crossing the bridge were so hypnotised by the vertiginous drop that they spontaneously threw themselves off.
Once you do get to the temple, you’ll see that it was definitely worth it, with spectacular views of the lake, the park and parts of Paris. Breathtaking!

Perhaps you’ll also see a couple of oddities, like a woman dangerously perched on a rock reading her book, or a small American visitor on holiday?

BUt the park has a lot more going for it than that. As soon as the sun starts warming things up, it becomes a favourite spot for picnics, and as it was nearly 28°C the day we went down there, the place was packed! Even if the photos make it look a little cramped, there’s actually enough room for everyone to be at ease without much of a problem.
So what’s the attraction? Surely part of it is the amount of water. It’s everywhere! Even if you’re not allowed in the lake, there are streams dotted around et – above all – a waterfall 20 metres high that drops into a large cave with giant stalactites. You’d hardly know that the whole thing is completely man-made! In any case, the cool air from the waterfall is very refreshing in the summer…
And what else? Well, the nature, obviously. With its many majestic old tress and carefully kept flower beds, it’s a refreshing, slightly nostalgic setting, a reminder of a bygone time when the  world seemed to turn a little slower…
And don’t forget that there are also two restaurants ; Rosa Bonheur, which is now so big and noisy (or so say the neighbours) that getting in may be a problem, and the newly-renovated Pavillon du Lac. Old school meets new school…

You can get into Rosa Bonheur even after the park itself is closed – rather rare in Paris – but be warned that if they are full, 10pm is the latest they’ll let you in (even though they close at midnight). As for the Pavillon du Lac, we’re waiting to find out their exact hours et modus operandi (they just re-opened a few weeks back, and the building had been closed for over a decade!).

Although some parts have definitely been restored and brought up to date, others are in need of a little but of repair. There are even certain things that were working only a few years ago that are now closed. For example, form the temple on top of the island, you used to be able to walk down a covered passage to access the suspension bridge. Because of structural problems (we imagine) the entrance has been closed for the last few years…
And before that (we’ve never seen it being used) another path led right down to the lake where a boat would transport people to the shore. You can still see a few parts of the route built into the side of the cliff, and it would be great for it to be reopened. It must have been pretty impressive.
And even if there’s a vintage look to some of the place, the Buttes Chaumont still has a modern side: 5 wi-fi spots are at your disposal if you want to surf for free. Thanks, Paris Council!

We cherish les Buttes Chaumont for its hidden corners, shady spots, its views and the feeling it gives of stepping slightly back in time. Each visit help us to rediscover the place, and we thing there are probably quite a few surprises in store… Try it for a picnic and you’ll see!

The Buttes Chaumont park is here. Open from 7am every day. Closes at 8pm, 9pm or even 10pm depending on the season!

To check out all our photos, click the ‘play’ button on the slideshow below, followed by the four little arrow at the bottom right (to see in fullscreen mode).