Bistronomy. It’s a dangerous word. I’m not even sure it is a word, but it’s being bandied about more and more, suggesting a mashup of old school bistro nosh with the class of gastronomy. Blazing new concept or just another meaningless buzzword?

We decided to test it out at Le Bistrot de l’Alycastre which proudly displays “Bistronomie” on its front blind, and has had some flattering reports on the web. The décor is kinda chic, kinda seen-it-before (plum-coloured walls, slightly kitsch chandeliers), and the restaurant has a great location in the heart of Saint Germain, explaining why the prices are higher than average.

After being seated on the small terrace out front, our waitress brought the menu as was able to answer our questions about the dishes with obvious confidence and knowledge. This was great for helping us choose. Fearing that we wouldn’t have room for the rest if we ate a first course, and also a little worried about the bill (!), we decided to go straight for the main courses, with one person choosing a fricassee of squid with chanterelle mushrooms, and the other requesting an “assiette végétarienne”; although it is not on the menu, they were happy to oblige. Both meals were satisfying enough, and although we were pleasantly surprised by the crunchiness and taste of the vegetables (Parisians seem to love theirs boiled to destruction) and the delicious bread (making a change from the ever-present anaemic baguette), we couldn’t help but think that we’d had cheaper nice meals in the past.

Anyway, time for dessert! The Valrhona chocolate soup was succulent, but admittedly I’m a sucker for anything with chocolate. Valrhona by the way is a French chocolate manufacturer which has its own school for training professional chefs in the higher chocolate arts. Kind of like Harry Potter meets Willy Wonka. Our other dessert was a jellied strawberry base covered a creamy mousse flavoured with Tonka beans. Supposedly close to the taste of vanilla, we couldn’t really taste anything at all! Also, a quick glimpse at Wikipedia once home told us that Tonka beans should be used with caution as they contain coumarin, a strong anti-coagulant, and is banned in food in the USA!

Several days later, we were still alive. Perhaps we should thanks the St. Félicien for that? It’s a small, creamy, round cheese that goes very runny very quickly, and it was delicious with a glass of red wine. Indeed, the Bistrot de l’Alycastre has a large selection of wines that they are happy to advise you on, all of which have a price tag in tune with the high-class area.

Unfortunately, the end of our meal was a little spoiled by an interminable wait for the bill. Being out on the terrace, I think they just forgot about us. In the end I had to tap on the window to make sure the waitress would eventually come and see us!

So, we were happy with our meal, but a little burnt by the prices. I think that if you are going to tout your establishment as “bistronomy” you have to make sure that everything is impeccable. After all, expensive dinners only feel expensive when you don’t think you’ve had value for money. The Bistrot de l’Alycastre serves pretty good food, but it’s dear. The staff are adorable, but could be more attentive. And at these prices, it takes more than a candelabra to make you feel like it’s worth the money(60€ per person (Hors d’oeuvre, main course, dessert, wine).

LE BISTROT DE L’ALYCASTRE
2, RUE CLEMENT, 75006 PARIS
Tel : 01 43 25 77 66
Métro : Mabillon