Unsurprisingly, in a country that loves its meat and sauces, it’s pretty difficult to find a decent vegetarian restaurant (that doesn’t look like the canteen of some strange sect), and although organic food is gaining popularity with a certain part of the population, much of the country couldn’t really care less. In such an atmosphere of indifference and faint disdain, it’s refreshing to find somewhere like Le Potager du Marais where the food isn’t a dry ordeal, even if the décor could do with a little updating…

We love Bob’s Kitchen, but they’re shut in the evening. The Tugalik isn’t bad, but perhaps a little-too calorie-conscious if you’re looking for a nice meal out. So one evening recently we went searching for a vegetarian restaurant where the food isn’t all bland rice and grimy sea salt, and we found Le Potager du Marais! Part of the lively end of rue Rambuteau that runs down from the Pompidou Centre towards the Marais, the area has become quite an epicurean paradise in the last few years, with numerous delicatessens, Italian restaurants and really, really nice cake shops!
Although part of the area for years now, the Potager du Marais has recently bought the deli next door in order to increase the number of tables and be able to sell takeaway food throughout the day (a pretty good idea). Many vegetarian tourists find themselves in this part of town without a decent food option, and the Potager du Marais knows it: their whole menu (and even the awning out front!) is translated into English, including the daily specials.

The tiny corridor of a main room remains – they aren’t planning on knocking the wall through as yet – and the cooking seems to be split over the two venues. Unfortunately, one thing that hasn’t changed is the décor. Frankly, it’s outdated and ugly. Lots of wood (for that earthy feel), dull colours (for that earthy feel), a hand-carved wooden Gandalf-like sculpture (for that earthy feel…). Add to that a lamp-stroke-fountain (with no water) and a clock with birds instead of numbers and an electronic chirp on the hour every hour, and there you have it: retro without the charm and heavy handed hints that the place is all about nature and health and getting back to Gaia and oh please why do all vegetarian restaurants in Paris look like something decorated by a hippy in the seventies?

Our advice? Eyes down and concentrate on the menu, as this is where the pleasant surprises start. The descriptions are written with care and start to get your mouth watering, as did the dishes served at the table next to ours. Things were looking up, and after a glass of (organic) wine, the first course arrived: fresh mushroom paté, nicely presented and full of flavour.
For the main course, my co-diner went for the seitan Bourguignon (very tasty) served with fried, crusty quinoa. Although you won’t be getting the same flavour as – say – wild boar, the texture of the seitan and the wine sauce do a good job of fooling your tastebuds, with the aroma of the dish helping too. Shame that it didn’t arrive at the table just a little warmer though.
I chose a crunchy quinoa burger, served without bread but with a creamy sauce, pine nuts, mashed carrot and a small salad. This was delicious and original, like a large falafel and not at all dry.
Despite being fairly full, we decided to taste the desserts, often a weak spot for many restaurants. The chocolate ‘moelleux’ was well executed and quite chocolatey, although some people may be surprised by the strange texture due to the chestnut flour used. The carrot and orange flan was lovely. Cool and zingy, perfect for a summer day, and astonishingly orange!It’s true that it may seem strange to eat at a vegetarian restaurant in such a meat-loving country, but some people prefer to, and restaurants that offer vegan and gluten-free options (like the Potager du Marais) with tasty food are rare here. Obvious care is taken with the presentation, the servings are generous and there’s a large choice.

The staff are discrete but pleasant, and as we encountered a slight wait between the main course and dessert, they took one dessert off the bill! Le Potager du Marais is a good option if you’re a vegetarian in Paris and perhaps an interesting change even if you do eat meat. Healthy, tasty eating at a reasonable price (around 40€ per person including wine).
Le Potager du Marais is at 22 rue Rambuteau (here). Tel. +33 1 42 74 24 66. Open 7 days a week from midday – 3pm and 7-11pm. Deli open all day from midday – 10.30pm.